Fownes: Glove maker
Fownes, the longest continual glove maker in the fashion industry, was founded in 1777. Their notable history of craftmanship and operational excellence is strengthened by manufacturing relationships that go back decades. Purchased in the 1930s by Andrew Gluckman’s great grandfather, the business has stayed family-owned and operated through the years, passing from one generation to the next.
The have been making gloves and hats for major department stores worldwide, forging key relationships with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Dillard’s, Selfridge’s, Von Maur, and Macy’s in the US and worldwide.
The fourth-generation family member to lead this privately held glove manufacturing company, Gluckman succeeds his father Tom, who will remain chairman — the father/son duo, in fact, are sharing a corner office in the company’s headquarters, located in the heart of NoMad. “My father is my best friend and the most tolerant, calm, and composed person I know,” said the new CEO, whose path to the top took years of hands- on experience and a somewhat circuitous route.
Gluckman grew up in NYC and attended New York University where he studied political theory and religion. The senior Gluckman offered his son a place in the family business on the condition that he make a five-year commitment and agree to learn the business from the ground up. And that’s how in 1994 Andrew Gluckman ended up moving to Gloversville, NY where he started a new career in the Fownes warehouse.
“I was assigned to work with long-time employees who taught me everything. They introduced me to the ‘glove life’ and showed me how to make patterns, sew, finish, and even iron the gloves.” From there, Gluckman did a six-month stint in the tannery, followed by a job in shipping where he learned to pick and pack product.
Soon, he was sent overseas to learn about sourcing. The moment he stepped off the plane in Hong Kong on the way to the Philippines and looked out across the harbor, he knew he had found his place. He spent several years traveling between Asia and the United States learning everything he could about the sourcing segment of the business — and the Asian market in general.
During this time in the mid-90’s, the retail world was rapidly evolving. To position Fownes for a successful future, the company engaged industry legend Lari Stanton, founder of Aris Isotoner, and his protégé Bruna Maney to help reposition the company. Together with the Gluckman team, they added knit gloves and cold weather accessories to the lineup, signing their first license with Nautica, Nine West and shortly after, Ugg, a relationship that remains to this day. Gluckman was also evolving his role, hitting the road again — this time with head of sales Chris Giattino, who today is President of Fownes US and who taught him how to solidly connect with customers.
To build out the company’s infrastructure and better serve its new business ventures, Gluckman moved to Shanghai. For the next 12 years partnered with Claire Kao, current GM of Supply Chain, they established Fownes’s Asian headquarters, expanded production capabilities, strengthened quality control, and managed the best most diverse group of factories dedicated to soft accessories in China, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, and the Philippines.
During the pandemic pause to business-as-usual, Fownes took the opportunity to reevaluate their business model, asking themselves, “Who do we need to be today? What does the market need and how can we support that? And, what type of infrastructure do we need to be more efficient on a global level?” The company understood they needed to assemble a team of executives with very specific skill sets to add additional categories in soft accessories and additional brands. Adding to an already capable team in the US and Asia, they brought in Allison Overton as vice president of design, Rachel Metcalf as managing director of performance, and Kate Falchi as vice president of merchandising and global business development.
Today, Gluckman has a palpable enthusiasm for the future and his mind is always focused on new and innovative ways to grow the business and drive sales. The team is constantly working on new prototypes, taking advantage of cutting-edge technology, 3D modeling, and more efficient methods to speed product to market and cut costs. Gluckman remains laser-focused on the customer, telling us that “supply chain problems and high minimum production orders shouldn’t be the customer’s worry. We are shifting to figure that out.” Part of that strategy involves creating a balance between divisions that offer leading performance product, private label, and a stellar list of key licensees.
As Andrew said, “We are excited to grow our portfolio and I have the team and production capabilities to do it.” Fownes’s licensees include Coleman, Cole Hahn, UGG, Cuddl Duds, and KoolaBurra. Private label includes fashion brand Anthropologie and performance brands Black Diamond, The North Face, and Canada Goose, to name a few. The team is also excited to revamp their in-house brand UR.
In 2019, the with an eye toward the future, the team took a long-term lease at 1201 Broadway in NoMad. With an entire floor and stunning views of the NoMad Piazza, the company is right where it belongs.